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I began taking a vague sort of interest in Egypt when I was about fourteen but this interest was entirely without any sort of focus.
During the 1980s two incidents occurred which focused that interest and subsequently led to the production of two training courses, a video and this guide.
The first incident was the appearance of Egyptologist John Romer on our television screens with two excellent series on Ancient Egyptian history.
First came Romer’s Egypt where – as John Romer said – he had gone 'cherry picking', visiting places which had a particular fascination for him.
The second series – Ancient Lives – was an in-depth look into the daily lives of the people who built and decorated the pharaohs’ tombs in the Valley of the Kings.
John Romer’s delivery was refreshing and his enthusiasm infectious and he rekindled my interest in Ancient Egypt.
The second event took place in September 1988 and made a lasting impression: I made my first visit to Egypt. As it turned out it was the first of many visits, but I didn’t know that then.
After that there was no looking back.
Once I had seen all the famous – and some not so famous – historic landmarks up close, experienced the friendliness of the people and marvelled at the beauty of the scenery I became a complete 'Eygptophile'.
My husband and I have made thirteen visits to Egypt so far – twice with friends and our daughter – and we hope to make may more.
Tourists we have met there – and others considering a holiday in Egypt – have asked us where to eat, what to pay for souvenirs, where to stay and so on.
It became clear to me that there is a great deal of interest in Egypt, whether as a holiday destination or simply because the very name evokes curiosity and wonder.
I have therefore compiled ‘Simply Egypt’ to provide basic details about Egypt for those with an interest in this wonderful country and to try and 'smooth the way' for the would-be traveller.
I hope it proves useful and that it helps to demonstrate why I – and so many others – find this unique and magical land so fascinating.
Enjoy it!
As one of the oldest tourist destinations in the world (it was visited by the Greeks and Romans) Egypt is well-used to catering for visitors.
Leave your western ideals behind, enter into the spirit of the place and open your mind; I guarantee you will have the holiday of your lifetime.
There is so much to see in Egypt that it would be impossible to fit it all into even a couple of holidays.
Egypt is 640 miles north to south and 600 miles east to west.
In ancient times there were two distinct kingdoms: Lower Egypt in the north and Upper Egypt in the south.
The Pharaoh Narmer (or Menes) is credited with the unification of the two lands around 3100 BC.
There is only one reason for Egypt’s existence, the Nile.
The river has provided water for washing, irrigating the land and as a means of transportation since ancient times.
Egypt has a desert climate: very hot, very dry and very little rain.
In the summer months temperatures can reach 140°F (60°C) in the south.
The most recent earthquake was in 1996.
Egyptians are invariably friendly and welcoming.
They are very patriotic, like to have tourists visiting their country and will go to considerable lengths to help visitors and make sure their stay is a happy one.
However, tourists need to bear in mind that this is a predominantly Muslim country and whilst not as restrictive as some others in the Middle East, sensitivity and discretion are advised.
One aspect of Egyptian life which visitors rapidly become accustomed to is ‘baksheesh’, a source of confusion for many tourists.
It is important not to confuse ‘baksheesh’ with begging.
Rather than give a child money, visitors should take sweets or inexpensive pens to distribute.
Alcohol is available in hotels and on cruise boats but not all restaurants.
Contrary to popular belief, the ‘shisha’ pipe is not filled with illegal substances. They contain tobacco of various flavours (e.g. apple) moistened with molasses.
Given the high religious, moral and ethical standards in Egypt it is a very safe country to visit.
Crime is rare and violent crime almost unheard of.
Theft is uncommon, though it is sensible to take the usual precautions when visiting crowded markets as there are pickpockets here, as everywhere else.
There are however, several ‘cons’ being perpetrated which visitors need to be aware of.
Making fun of the country, its customs, culture or any other aspect of Egyptian life is considered grossly offensive and also shows a want of manners.
Family life is important to all Egyptians and they will happily show you photographs of their family. They will be delighted if you do likewise.
Visiting an average Egyptian home can be a bit of a culture shock as they are unlikely to have much in the way of luxury goods or labour saving devices.
Their homes will be full of the important things: good food, friendship, family life and lively conversation.
To visit Egypt, visitors will need a full passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of departure. A visa is also required.
On arrival in Egypt visitors will need to hand in a simple immigration card which will normally have been issued on the aircraft.
Travellers taking a video camera into Egypt will be required to register it by having the appropriate stamp entered into the owners passport on arrival.
There are no compulsory vaccinations required for entry into Egypt unless travelling from an infected area.
However, inoculations against polio, tetanus and typhoid are strongly recommended. Vaccination against Hepatitis A is also worth considering.
Private hospitals are preferable to public sector ones but ideally tourists would be well advised to avoid admission to either.
Do not wear very short shorts, bra tops, strapless tops or anything see-through.
Topless sunbathing is absolutely forbidden (except for men, of course)
It is a good idea to take some sticky labels to put on the outside of the film containers to make a note of what the roll of film contains.
By the time most of us tourists have arrived home and had the photographs developed, it is likely we will have forgotten which temple is which.
Egypt is a bird watchers paradise so remember to take binoculars.
The Egyptian pound, or gunaih, is usually written as LE (an abbreviation of livre égyptienne). There are 100 piastres, or qirsh, to the pound. Coins and banknotes range from 5 piastres to LE100.
The main banks are the Bank of Alexandria, Banque du Caire (Bank of Cairo), the National Bank of Egypt and the Egyptian American Bank.
Northern Ireland pounds, Irish punts and Scottish bank notes are not accepted.
Visit the Central Bank of Egypt
Use the Yahoo! Finance Currency Converter
Prices may vary considerably depending on the quality of the item, where it was purchased and in which part of the country it was bought.
Egypt is a bargain-hunters paradise and there are some really good deals to be had for those prepared to shop around.
Everyone is expected to bargain, it is a way of life in Egypt but many other nationalities are not comfortable with it.
Bargaining should be fun. Do not be aggressive or confrontational and don’t take it too seriously.
The end result should be that both buyer and seller are happy.
Locally produced wine has rocketed in price in recent years. It used to cost between LE10 and LE20 per bottle but is now LE45 and LE55.
Be aware that prices in perfume shops and papyrus factories will increase if you are accompanied by your tour guide: they are paid commission on sales for taking you there.
Food in Egypt is a mixture of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences and there is something to suit all tastes.
Food is fresh, unprocessed and unpackaged so it may take foreign visitors’ stomachs a few days to adjust.
Fruit is cheap, plentiful and generally delicious. There is also a tremendous variety.
If ordering coffee, be specific. Ask for instant coffee, Nescafe or where available, cappuccino. ‘Coffee’ is often taken to mean Turkish coffee, which is thick, very strong and heavily sweetened.
Egyptian cuisine caters for all tastes: Italian, Chinese, Indian, Middle Eastern and fast food . . . it’s all there!
Many of the best restaurants in Luxor tend to be at the southern end of town where many of the hotels are, though there are other good ones dotted around town.
Menus and prices are displayed outside.
In Cairo the choice of places to eat is even greater. There are many cafes, coffee shops and restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets.
In Aswan, as an indulgence, have tea on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel.
On a Nile cruise there is no problem finding something to eat. All meals – breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner – are served on board.
Taxis are blue and white in Luxor and Aswan, and black and white in Cairo.
It is worth noting that very few of the older taxis don’t have working seatbelts.
Prices are for a specified return journey unless otherwise stated and are per taxi not per person.
Do not pay the driver or tip him until the end of the journey.
Taxi drivers will wait as long as required at sites (no charge for waiting) but do not worry if he drives off . . . he is only going for a coffee or cigarettes.
He’ll be back; he hasn’t been paid!
Egyptair – the country’s national airline – handles most domestic flights which (though expensive) are fairly regular and pretty reliable.
Tour companies are divided about whether or not to promote the train journey from Aswan to Cairo because trains pass through a district called Assiyut.
Many government buildings are located in this area and are considered ‘high risk’ targets, though there have been no serious incidents and tourists have not been targeted.
The risk is small and should not deter the more intrepid travellers, though tour company reps may advise that anyone travelling does so at their own risk.
For a Luxor speciality, take a ‘once in a lifetime’ opportunity to take a bird's eye view of the monuments.
Most flights take place at first light and involve a very early start. A cold buffet breakfast is served on landing.
Caleches – the horse drawn carriages – are an integral part of Egypt and most tourist will have a trip in one sooner or later.
Be careful! If anyone is going to ‘rip off’ the tourists it will almost certainly be a caleche driver but by following a few simple tips it is possible to enjoy a caleche ride without any unpleasantness.
Felucca – the graceful, white sailed boats – are traditional craft and ideal for conditions on the Nile.
A trip on one of these boats is a must. Sit back, relax, admire the view and enjoy the sunset.
Egypt is a photographer’s paradise, with its ancient sites, beautiful scenery, contrasting colours and magnificent sunsets.
Photography is not permitted at airports, ports of entry or other militarily sensitive sites but is allowed at all the temples and pyramid sites.
Flash photography is not allowed in tombs or museums.
Arabic is a notoriously difficult language to learn but attempts to learn a few basic words and phrases will be appreciated.
Usually waiters – sometime tour guides – can be persuaded to teach a new word every day.
Some tour groups will not accept bookings for children under the age of 12. There is very little organised entertainment for children and no ‘Kids Clubs’ such as may be found elsewhere.
Egypt is not particularly geared up for visitors with serious mobility problems as potholes, uneven surfaces and lack of suitable toilet facilities can make life difficult.
However, depending on the degree of disability and the sense of adventure of the individual concerned it is still possible to have a memorable holiday.
Egyptians are extremely helpful and will go to great lengths to assist people with disabilities.
It is certainly possible to enjoy Egypt’s nightlife but anyone looking for a wild time with parties and discos until dawn is going to be disappointed.
There are a number of casinos which – in theory – are open to non- Egyptians only, though many nationalities are to be found there.
A recent addition to Cairo’s nightlife is the very impressive, white domed Opera House near the el Gezirah Sheraton Hotel.
There are four impressive Sound and Light Shows in Egypt: at Karnak, Abu Simbel, Philae and the Giza Pyramids. All are worth seeing.
There is so much to see and take in on a visit to Egypt.
In addition, some of the tour guides are excellent and the quality of the tour guide can make a real difference.
It is advisable to carry a small notebook and pencil when visiting sites in order to write down any additional information.
Visitors can visit the Giza pyramids more cheaply, spend longer and see more by organising the trip themselves, unless it is included in the price of the holiday.
Taxi drivers in Cairo are generally reliable and will usually be straight with their passengers.
Some will offer to take you to a perfume ‘factory’ or a carpet factory as they receive a percentage of any sales.
Unless you really do want to go, just refuse politely and remind the driver when you do want to go.
The Pharaonic Village was established by former diplomat Dr Hassan Ragab but it does not feature in most organised tours.
It is, however, a pleasant enough way to spend a few hours though the admission fee is extortionate.
The Khan el Khalili Bazaar, famed in song and story this is the famous and original ‘old bazaar in Cairo’.
This is shopping the hard way but it’s an experience.
Everyone should visit the Egyptian Antiquities Museum. No-one can fail to be impressed by the range, quality and number of exhibits to be found here.
The Necropolis at Saqqara is located 25 miles outside Cairo. It is 4½ miles north to south and contains tombs from almost every period of Egyptian history.
Discoveries have been made at Saqqara for over four thousand years and continue to be made to this day.
Luxor stands on the site of the ancient city of Thebes, Egypt's capital during the New Kingdom.
This is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world and one of the richest in terms of its history.
The splendour of ancient Thebes is echoed on both the East and West Banks of the Nile at Luxor and the tourists flock here from all over the world to marvel at the glories of Egypt's past.
The Valley of the Kings, the Ramesseum, Karnak and Luxor Temples and the Valley of the Queens . . . they're all here.
It is also possible to enjoy the many delights of Egypt's present: the bazaar ( shopping the hard way !), a relaxing felucca ride on the timeless River Nile, walks along the Corniche and a visit to the Museum.
New discoveries continue to be made all the time and in spite of the 'hassle' from caleche drivers and felucca touts and the pollution from cruise boats and coaches, this is a wonderful place.
Marvel at the ancient temples and tombs, bargain for souvenirs and enjoy the hospitality and friendliness of the Egyptian people.
Luxor is a place like no other; enjoy it!
Aswan is quiet, picturesque and less busy and crowded than Luxor.
The Aga Khan (who died in 1957) had a home here. His mausoleum is on top of a hill above the villa and is clearly visible from the town.
The mausoleum is no longer accessible to tourists.
The Begum died in 2000 and is buried there, next to her husband.
Aswan has its share of historic sites and is also the starting point for the cruise to Abu Simbel via Lake Nasser.
Visit the High Dam, Kitchener Island and the beautiful Temple of Isis on the island of Philae, the last temple in Egypt to fall to Christianity.
Relax, enjoy the peace and tranquility and soak up the beautiful scenery.
I trust you will find this guide informative and that it will prove useful in planning your holiday to Egypt.
For many years such a holiday was considered a ‘once in a lifetime’ experience but not so much now. Such is the fascination with Ancient Egyptian history that having experienced it once, most tourists will return.
This is a country like no other and the memories of it will stay with you.
The scenery is stunning, the colours are amazing and the temples, tombs and monuments are awe-inspiring but it is Egypt’s people that are among its greatest treasures: warm, welcoming, generous and friendly they will figure prominently in the many memories you will bring back from this wonderful country.
I have been fortunate enough to have travelled to most of the tourist sites from Cairo in the north and Abu Simbel in the south (including the temples of Lake Nasser), across the Eastern Desert to the beach resorts of the Red Sea and as far as the recently developed ‘Egyptian Riviera’ of the Sinai Peninsula.
Each place has something different to offer and there is something to suit all tastes.
5,000 years of history is encapsulated within Egypt’s borders and clearly it is not possible to visit all its wonders in a single visit so plan your itinerary carefully to ensure that you see as much as you can in the time that you have.
Know your limitations and don’t overdo it, retain your sense of humour and give in to your sense of wonder.
Experience the sights, the sounds, the colours and the culture of this magnificent land and you will understand why it has attracted travellers and scholars from centuries past and continues to draw people to it today.
Please email your request, stating which chapters you would like and the country you want them sent to, and I will get back to you.
